Civerinos

Four American doughs run out of one Glasgow kitchen: New Haven apizza baked thin and hard until it chars, New York slices cut big enough to fold, Detroit pressed into a pan so the cheese caramelizes against the metal, and a lunchtime panuozzo, which is the same dough baked plain then split and filled like a sandwich.

Why go

Civerinos started in Edinburgh in 2014 and opened its first room outside the capital on Radnor Street in September 2023, off Argyle Street at the Kelvingrove end (SLTN). This is the Glasgow site, and the only one; everything else under the name is in Edinburgh. The slices are the format to understand: two of them make half a 20 inch pie, so a single slice is a meal and the counter can turn a queue fast (DRAM Scotland). The company also put its Doughboy training academy and pizza production lab into the Glasgow building, which is where the dough for the room gets made rather than delivered. Rosalind Erskine reviewed it in opening month and scored the food 6 out of 10 against 7 for the room, which is the only critical read on record.

Order this / avoid

• Order: a New York slice first to judge the dough, then the garlic crust bites, which Erskine called "as good and moreish as described - little pops of unbelievably light crust" ref. If you are there between noon and 3pm, the panuozzo is the thing most people miss.
• Avoid: arriving expecting Naples. This is American pizza, and Erskine found the char on her crust "didn't look great" even where it "didn't detract too much from the flavour." If the bake looks burned rather than spotted, say so at the counter; the staff offered her a replacement.

What locals & experts say

• The Scotsman (Rosalind Erskine, October 2023), food 6/10, ambiance 7/10: the room is "bright, colourful and covered in graffiti art" with "bent-plywood furniture inspired by a half pipe skate ramp" and "standing tables inspired by New York slice bars," and the giant mozzarella stick came "crisp and packed full of stringy cheese." ref
• SLTN (September 2023): headlined the arrival as "Cult pizza joint Civerinos open the doors of its first Glasgow branch." ref
• GlasgowWorld (first look, 2023): the Radnor Street kitchen went in with "one of the biggest pizza ovens in Scotland," rated at 300 pies an hour, and the graffiti outside is by the local artist Pizza Boy. ref
• Local rec: Jeff's save, his note below. REAL.

Good to know

• Which site: Radnor Street, off Argyle Street beside Kelvingrove Park. The venue's own page calls it Civerinos Finnieston. The rest of the group, including Forrest Road and Stockbridge, is in Edinburgh and is not this row.
• Timing: late morning to about 10:30pm midweek and 11pm on Friday and Saturday. Check the Maps pin for exact hours.
• Booking: online reservations for smaller tables, email for a large party or private hire, and you can always walk in for a slice. Collection and Deliveroo run seven days.
• Address note: the venue publishes 13 Radnor Street; The Scotsman and the food hygiene register both record 9 Radnor Street. Same postcode, same building line.

Jeff's take (his words)

• Note: "American pizza meets Scotland"

Verdict (Chef Jeff ladder)

could-visit — Solid, and it does one thing that nothing else in Glasgow does: four American regional doughs under one roof, New Haven apizza, New York slices, Detroit pan and a lunchtime panuozzo, out of a company that has been building the same product in Edinburgh since 2014. The Scotsman gave the Glasgow opening 6 out of 10 for food against 7 for the room, with visible charring on the crust the main complaint, and nobody has re-assessed it since. Cheap by the slice, loud by design, good for a group, and a reasonable stop rather than a reason to cross the city.